Staying On Top Of Those Weeds…

It’s dispiriting to see new gardeners give up because they struggle to keep their plots sufficiently weed-free to be productive, indeed, acceptable, under the terms of tenancy.

There’s a recurrent pattern, where the new plot holder invests a lot of effort, perhaps even enlists help, to weed the plot, but is then daunted to see that a mere month or so later the myriad seeds have germinated and then rapidly grown, so that the plot looks little different from when they first took it.

The problem often seems to be a lack of knowledge, as to the proper use of two simple, basic tools – the hoe and the rake, and of the effects of time on the growth of weeds.

So, to start at the beginning, once the heavy work of first clearing has been done, it’s essential to prevent weeds from re-establishing themselves, but this needn’t be difficult, and this is where hoe and rake come into the picture. If the gardener can attend at least once every ten days or so during the growing season, then the small weeds and seedlings can easily be destroyed, by using a pull hoe to cut them and their roots away from the underlying soil, working methodically in strips, to avoid trampling the weeds back in, or re-covering them with successive work. This is by far best done in dry weather so that the weeds quickly shrivel and die. After the hoe, a rake can be used to gather up the weeds for the compost heap. It’s best not to leave them as, a shower of rain can water them back in, and some will recover. However, it’s crucial not to allow the weeds time to put down deep roots, and so regular attendance – at least once every ten days – is essential.

That said, however, using a hoe and rake isn’t hard work. If done regularly, then unlike digging it doesn’t need much strength or energy, doesn’t involve bending like weeding with a trowel, and it’s very quick.

If the gardener hasn’t much time, then a low-maintenance plot should be designed so that it may easily be managed by hoe-and-rake. Too many structures – raised beds, cages etc. can hinder the use of these wonderful, simple tools.

A Word About Bay Trees

We’re used to seeing these attractive small shrubs in tubs, as topiary features, outside restaurants and other public places, and it might be tempting to include one in an allotment herb garden. However, the ones that we see out-and-about are only small because they’re in containers and regularly trimmed. The fact is, that bay is a fast-growing evergreen, a laurel. Planted in free soil it quickly becomes a large, very dense tree. It’s a broadleaf. It’s not a fruit tree, and PPAA’s understanding therefore, is that its planting isn’t allowed under our terms of tenancy.

Part of the volunteers’ work is clearing plots ready for new tenants, and an increasingly large part of their time and energy is being taken in dealing with neglected bay trees, which shouldn’t have been planted in the first place.

If anyone wants to grow one of these, then please keep it in a container and prune it regularly. After all, how many bay leaves would even the most enthusiastic cook need in a year – a couple of handfuls?

There’s at least one bay in the hedge by the spine road in any case, so if anyone wants a few leaves for a stew then they’re very welcome to help themselves.